Giorno 3: Martedi, 20 Novembre
The Glory (and the gory!) of the Ancients
"After breakfast we'll get oriented to Rome's efficient metro system, and ride back in time to Ancient Rome. ... we'll tour and hear vivid tales of the larger-than-life Colosseum and Ancient Rome's birthplace: the Forum. "
- Rome In Seven Days Itinerary, www.ricksteves.com
Today we were joined by our local guide, Francesca (at right). We first met Francesca for the Rome segment of our VFR tour, and we were thrilled to have her back.
We began the day at the church of San Clemente, a 12th century basilica on top of a 4th century basilica, on top of a 1st century neighborhood. The extent of the excavation is remarkable. It would be a great location to film some sort of "Land of the Lost" time travel movie. Unfortunately, they permit photos only in the upper church. After a nice cup of espresso and a break in the world's smallest toilet, we headed toward the Colosseum. |
The Colosseum is at once very familiar and very foreign. Anyone who has been to a pro sports event, or even seen one on TV, will recognize the layout. Yet, the enormity of the destruction of life that took place here was something few of us can comprehend. Francesca made a very good point that Romans did not have the same concept of compassion or pity that we might have toward the victims of the games. Well, that may be a reason. But is it an excuse?
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I have to admit that my first thought, as a TV producer who started my career in sports, was where I would have put my cameras. I decided to keep with the 180 degree rule, and place all my cameras opposite the Emperor's box. After all, you want to show the man who provides the money. Two cameras mid-field low, two more high. One at each end floor level, and another pair at each end high. One reverse angle just beside the Emperor's box. And two hand-helds on the floor. If I could find operators and cable pullers crazy enough to do it!
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From the Colosseum, we moved to the Forum. Derek and I are huge fans of Steven Saylor, a fellow University of Texas grad who writes brilliant mysteries set in Republican Rome. We spent most of our time at the Forum picking out locations from the books! It's incredible how much great history, as well as everyday life, happened in this relatively small rectangle of land.
We explored the Palatine hill on our own before heading back to the hotel to try to get some feeling back into our feet! |
The group had dinner at a Lumie di Sicilia. The staff provided a wonderful cooking demo, and treated us like family. I also had the best coffee of my life!
We took an evening walk through Trastevere, and had the good fortune to arrive at the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere just in time for evening services. I've never seen a city more beautiful by night than Rome! |