Giorno 5: Giovedi, 22 Novembre
A Side Trip to the World's Smallest Nation
"At the sprawling Vatican Museum we'll tour the seemingly endless collection of treasures as we make our way to one of the world's most famous works of art: Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel. Our guided tour will continue to the awe-inspiring St. Peter's Basilica, home to Michelangelo's moving Pietá. "
- Rome In Seven Days Itinerary, www.ricksteves.com
Vatican City is almost like another world. It's the world's smallest state, but its religious, political, and intellectual influence cannot be overstated. That power is well in evidence at the Vatican Museum. The ancient works, like the Laocoon and the Artemis, show the Roman Catholic Church's connection to the Roman Empire, while later works commissioned for the church, like the Raphael Rooms, point to its role as a patron throughout its history. If it weren't for Pope Julius II, we wouldn't have the Sistine Chapel. (Sorry, no photography is allowed in the Chapel. so there's nothing in my slide show from there. As the guards say, "No talkie! No photo!") The modern art gallery shows that the tradition continues today.
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I must admit to not being terribly fond of St. Peter's Basilica. I don't find it at all aesthetically pleasing. There isn't a coherent stylistic theme. The color palate is a mess. And, it's completely out of human scale. Of course, that's kind of the point. Important buildings are meant to say things, and this one says,"We're the Church. Only God is more powerful." As a Protestant, I have to admit that rubs me the wrong way. But, that's my baggage, I suppose. On this trip, however, there was something new. The remains of Pope John Paul II had been moved to the Chapel of St. Sebastian. I respect John Paul II. He tried to build bridges. Despite our theological differences, I think he still would have called me a sister in Christ.
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On a lighter note, I'll share my favorite thing in Vatican City outside of the great works of art. The Swiss Guard. They wear multicolored puffy pants, stripped stockings, and floppy hats, and still manage to look like badasses. That's quite an accomplishment!
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After leaving the Vatican, we made our way to Castel Sant'Angelo. I was captivated by this building when I saw the movie "Angels and Demons". The green space surrounding the castle and the bridge leading to it are an entertaining street fair in itself. But, the castle is definitely worth the admission, especially if you pop for the audio tour. It was originally the tomb of the Emperor Hadrian. I think he would be pleased to know people were still visiting it. I had forgotten that Benvenuto Cellini had been imprisoned here. I read his immensely entertaining autobiography in college. I've always thought it would make a great movie (directed by Joss Whedon with Hugh Jackman as Cellini). The view from the roof of the castle is incredible!
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