Giorno 4: Mercoledi, 21 Novembre
The Ghosts of Ostia
"Unlike Rome's politically-oriented Forum, our walk through Ostia gives us a chance to envision the daily lives of merchants and craftsmen. "
- Rome In Seven Days Itinerary, www.ricksteves.com
On Wednesday, the clouds finally broke and the sun came out, just in time for our day trip to Ostia, the old port city that served ancient Rome.
We left early, taking the subway out to the train station, then a commuter train out to Ostia. The archeological park was just a short walk from the station. You enter into town by the main road, past the necropolis, and through the main gate. |
Ben was at his entertaining best at Ostia! He really brought the town to life, showing us a restaurant, complete with a fresco proclaiming "food, drink, music". We got the...ummm...straight poop...on public hygiene. We saw how religion was woven into every aspect of life, even the commercial, as we explored Ostia's little forum. And Ben even took the stage at the theatre. |
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Ben walked us through a domus, the home of a more well-to-do family. Derek and I looked at each other, and said at the same time,"We're in the house of Gordianus!" We could see our favorite detective interviewing clients in his study, while his wife rules the house from the kitchen, and a servant snoozes at the door.
I went up a set of stairs to the second floor and looked out at the city, and thought of my favorite scene from "A Murder on the Appian Way". Gordianus is explaining the riots in Rome to his daughter as they watch the destruction below. He wants to protect her, but still believes she has a right to understand what's happening. Steven Saylor recreates Rome's history and politics wonderfully, but it's in these small family moments that he really shines. |
It's one thing to visit the great sites of ancient Rome. These are the buildings in which great historical events happened, where the future of the world was shaped. But, it is inextricably mixed with the later buildings around them. When you walk through Ostia, you see a whole city spread out before you, just like it was when merchants traded fish sauce and serving girls shopped for vegetables. It's a remarkable experience. I want to go back, and spend another whole day there just soaking it in!